Wine, etc. 

Castello di Ama

Situated in the heart of area Chianti Classico (between Radda and Gaiole), Castello di Ama winery was established in 1972. Four well-off Roman families (Sebasti, Cavanna, Carini and Tradico) during several years consolidated in their hands 250 hectares of land and two villas, which are more than 200 years old.

In the middle of the 70s Castello di Ama began active experiments with new clones of Sangiovese, different variants of vine training and with four elite vineyards (“Cru”): Bellavista, La Casuccia, Bertinga and San Lorenzo. Very soon the results of the progressive approach became evident: in 1978 Chianti Classico Bellavista attracted attention of experts and connoisseurs. Nevertheless, “new era” of Castello di Ama began in 1988, when 23-year-old representative of the second generation of owners, Lorenza Sebasti, began to manage the company. University graduate without thinking left the Eternal City and moved to villa Pianigiani, having decided to devote her life to wine in general and to Castello di Ama in particular. In 1992 Lorenza became engaged with famous enologist Marco Pallanti’s, who to that time was responsible for vineyard and wine-making of the company and his name was unambiguously identified with Castello di Ama.

His relatively easy and quick start in wine-making he owes to famous Carlo Ferrini, with who he studied together in the University of Florence: “After military service I asked Carlo for a job and he suggested me a position in the laboratory of Chianti Classico Consortium. Then during one year I was teaching in Siena Institute of Enology, where my students were Attilio Pagli, Giovanna Morganti, Leonardo Bellaccini and Paolo Caciornia, who became very famous wine-makers. Soon, however, Carlo told me that Fattoria di Ama (former name of the company) was looking for an enologist. I answered that I would be turned down in view of young years and absence of experience, nevertheless, Ferrini insisted on my meeting with one of the owners – Gian Vittorio Cavanna. And I was taken on!” Then there was studying in Bordeaux, acquaintance with the main enologist of Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Patrick Leon. On coming back to Castello di Ama, Marco Pallanti began to realize his owners’ ambitious plan – to become one of the best in Chianti Classico. It should be said that the task wasn’t easy, as many vineyards were situated on the height of more than 400 – 500 meters above sea level, that’s why a careful selection of clones, very competent planting and low productivity were obligatory.

Only little time passed and the most authoritative wine guide of Italy, published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food, gives the highest grade (the fond “three glasses” or “tre bicchieri”) to Chianti Classico San Lorenzo ’83. After this wine go Chianti Classico Bellavista ’85 and ’86, and also three (!!!) wines of 1988 year’s harvest: Chianti Classico Bertinga, Chianti Classico La Casuccia and Vigna L’Apparita. It worth noting, that within 6 years all four Cru of Castello di Ama’s Chianti Classico praised.

Special attention deserves Vigna L’Apparita, produced from 100% of Merlot. Having tremendously arisen, as the first sample was shown only in 1985, and then ’90, ’91, ’92 got “three glasses”. To the middle of the 90s L’Apparita was recognized by most wine critics. For example, Nicolas Belfrage, the author of great books about Italian wines (“Barolo to Valpolicella” and “Brunello to Zibibbo”), included this wine to his top–5 Merlot of Tuscany, together with Masseto (Tenuta dell’Ornellaia), Redigaffi (Tua Rita), Galatrona (Fattoria Petrolo) and Messorio (Le Macchiole). Belfrage thinks that in its class L’Apparita achieved the same level as the great Sassicaia in the Cabernet Sauvignon class. If to consider that the experiments with various grapes were extended also on Chardonnay (Vigna al Poggio) and very unusual for Toscana Pinot Noir (Il Chiuso), - it becomes evident that in Castello di Ama they try to find an optimal decision of the task of introduction of “terroir” uniqueness.

Nevertheless, the main passion of Ama – is the Tuscan native Sangiovese. In 1997 – 2000, 15 hectares of new clones were planted, and the general area of vineyards reached 90 hectares (other 40 hectares are given to olive). In 1996 Chianti Clasico Castello di Ama was produced for the first time, the approach to production of which reminds more Bordeaux than Burgundy. Pallanti says that this wine can’t be considered “basic” Chianti from Castello di Ama, because of the use of only selected vines, including the ones from famous Crus (San Lorenzo and Bertinga). And “three glasses” for Chianti Classico Castello di Ama 1999 and 2000 this time are even more honorable. Moreover, in 2002 critics of Gambero Rosso called Marco Pallanti the best enologist of Italy. Perhaps, besides Ama, only Castello di Fonterutoli and Castello di Brolio took the risk to follow the similar way developing a new standard, which is unofficially called Super-Chianti.

And anyway, “we have to transplant many hectares of vines, to improve the technology of vinification. We should remember that wine-makers of Bordeaux have more than hundred – year – old experience of elite wine production, that’s why our victories should be considered as episodic yet”, says the alive classic of Italian wine-making, Marco Pallanti.

Sergei Gusovsky

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